You don’t need to be a leather expert to spot quality — but it helps to know what to look for. At Em John, I use genuine leather because it hits the sweet spot: it’s durable, flexible, accessible, and built for everyday life. Whether you’re upgrading your wallet game or just want your favorite one to last a little longer, here’s how to tell if it’s made well — and how to take care of it like a pro.

Signs of Quality Leather (Even If It’s ‘Genuine’)

Not all leather is equal. “Genuine leather” technically just means it’s real — but it doesn’t guarantee quality. That’s why I always look for a few key signs to tell if something’s been made to last:

1. Touch
Good leather should feel soft but not floppy, with a bit of texture. If it’s perfectly smooth and plasticky, that’s a red flag.
2. Smell
This might sound silly, but it works. Leather has a warm, earthy scent — not sharp, chemical, or like plastic. Trust your nose.
3. Stitching
Take a close look at the seams. Neat, even stitching (no frays or skipped threads) means better construction and longer wear.
4. Edges
Are the edges clean and sealed? Painted or folded edges prevent unraveling and keep the wallet from fraying with use.
5. Weight
Light can be nice — but too light can mean hollow or synthetic fillers. Good leather has a bit of weight to it and feels grounded in your hand.